LP12
- savvypaul
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Re: LP12
Ironically, by improving it (assuming the Rubicon does) you may have reduced resale value rather than increased it. Originality and original manufacturer parts tend to be sought after. That said, if the Rubicon was sold through Linn dealers, the irony may not apply.
- karatestu
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Re: LP12
I am making sure that I keep all the old parts just in case I need to put it back to stock for sale. If I sold it I would probably sell the Rubikon and Aro separately but I won't know the most valuable way to sell unless I research it.savvypaul wrote: ↑Fri Jan 06, 2023 11:19 am Ironically, by improving it (assuming the Rubicon does) you may have reduced resale value rather than increased it. Originality and original manufacturer parts tend to be sought after. That said, if the Rubicon was sold through Linn dealers, the irony may not apply.
Yes, Rubikon was sold by Linn dealers. I have the original sale invoice and it came from Cymbiosis. £1295 when new.
My deck is the basic black Ash version with original plinth, top plate, platters, bearing, motor, cross brace. Not sure if these old pre cirkus decks are worth much. The Aro alone would be worth more than the rest put together probably.
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- savvypaul
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Re: LP12
Good thinking.karatestu wrote: ↑Fri Jan 06, 2023 11:51 amI am making sure that I keep all the old parts just in case I need to put it back to stock for sale. If I sold it I would probably sell the Rubikon and Aro separately but I won't know the most valuable way to sell unless I research it.savvypaul wrote: ↑Fri Jan 06, 2023 11:19 am Ironically, by improving it (assuming the Rubicon does) you may have reduced resale value rather than increased it. Originality and original manufacturer parts tend to be sought after. That said, if the Rubicon was sold through Linn dealers, the irony may not apply.
Yes, Rubikon was sold by Linn dealers. I have the original sale invoice and it came from Cymbiosis. £1295 when new.
My deck is the basic black Ash version with original plinth, top plate, platters, bearing, motor, cross brace. Not sure if these old pre cirkus decks are worth much. The Aro alone would be worth more than the rest put together probably.
Yeah, the ARO goes for serious cash, these days...
- karatestu
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Re: LP12
Not a clue yet. Not finished setting it up. I remember enjoying it in stock form ten years ago.
Lingo is working. Phono1 ready to go. Arm is on its base. Just faffing about making a potential divider to set the volume and off we go.
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- karatestu
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Re: LP12
First off I had everything swiched on and so pressed the on button. Nothing happened. Scratching of head revealed I had forgotten to put the elastic band on
Turned on phono1 and power amps and I was greeted with buzzing through the speakers and a tap tap noise. Touching the TIS cables produced more buzz. Can't hear it from my chair though.
Switched the deck on and dropped the needle. Much crackling and then Led Zep Good times bad times came forth sounding like the chipmunks.
Bloody on off switch in left hand corner is sticking. I have to pull it up with my nail otherwise it ends up in 45 rpm.
Listening to the whole first side of Led Zep 1 (admittedly a crap copy) I am mostly underwhelmed. There is the unmistakable sound of an anologue recording via vinyl. That is all I can say at this point. Been so long since I listened to vinyl I have nothing to compare it to except digital.
Not sure what to do now. Try and sort the buzz out I expect. Then throw a wobbler and skip the lot
Turned on phono1 and power amps and I was greeted with buzzing through the speakers and a tap tap noise. Touching the TIS cables produced more buzz. Can't hear it from my chair though.
Switched the deck on and dropped the needle. Much crackling and then Led Zep Good times bad times came forth sounding like the chipmunks.
Bloody on off switch in left hand corner is sticking. I have to pull it up with my nail otherwise it ends up in 45 rpm.
Listening to the whole first side of Led Zep 1 (admittedly a crap copy) I am mostly underwhelmed. There is the unmistakable sound of an anologue recording via vinyl. That is all I can say at this point. Been so long since I listened to vinyl I have nothing to compare it to except digital.
Not sure what to do now. Try and sort the buzz out I expect. Then throw a wobbler and skip the lot
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- karatestu
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Re: LP12
Put on a never played Back to Black 180g reissue of Marvin Gaye - Let's get it on.
This is much better than the zep1. Where did the bass come from, seems a bit overblown on this album . Have I got some acoustic feedback going on or just imaging it.
One plus is when walking near the deck it doesn't jump like it used to do.
I turned the lamp off in the picture just before taking the pic. I heard a noise from the speakers when I turned it off Something odd going on here.
This is much better than the zep1. Where did the bass come from, seems a bit overblown on this album . Have I got some acoustic feedback going on or just imaging it.
One plus is when walking near the deck it doesn't jump like it used to do.
I turned the lamp off in the picture just before taking the pic. I heard a noise from the speakers when I turned it off Something odd going on here.
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- karatestu
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Re: LP12
Moved the lingo as far away as possible and hum remains. Turned the lingo off and the hum remained. Its not the lingo.
My attention is now with the phono1. Try and reposition it but my arm leads are not very long.
The tapping noises have gone.
My attention is now with the phono1. Try and reposition it but my arm leads are not very long.
The tapping noises have gone.
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Re: LP12
Touch a bit of wire to the arm tube and to the phono ground point, that might shut it up. the aro has a jewel bearing so has 2 internal ground wires, one from the tube and one from the pillar because the bearinf doesnt conduct. if the tube one is dodgy you can get loud hum.
The crack when switching a light on probably means the phono is picking up a spike from the switch in the lamp because there is no cap on it
The crack when switching a light on probably means the phono is picking up a spike from the switch in the lamp because there is no cap on it
Analogue: oracle delphi sme 309, jbe series 3 cx unipivot dv20x2l, roksan xerxes tabriz vm750, jvc ql-y5f rigb at440, jvc ql-y3f vm750, lenco 75, technics sl150
Phono stages: cole lcr, benedict audio hothead
Digital: cyrus cd7, wiim mini x2, topping e30, jds labs el dac 2+
Amplification: nelson pass b1, nelson pass f5
Speakers: 15" fane aperiodic wardrobes
Cans: myryad z40, hifiman sundara + deva, fostex t50rp, sennheiser momentum on ear +over ear, b&w p5 and p7
Phono stages: cole lcr, benedict audio hothead
Digital: cyrus cd7, wiim mini x2, topping e30, jds labs el dac 2+
Amplification: nelson pass b1, nelson pass f5
Speakers: 15" fane aperiodic wardrobes
Cans: myryad z40, hifiman sundara + deva, fostex t50rp, sennheiser momentum on ear +over ear, b&w p5 and p7
- karatestu
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Re: LP12
Thanks for that suggestion Ant. However, it didn't stop it.Vinyl-ant wrote: ↑Fri Jan 06, 2023 4:16 pm Touch a bit of wire to the arm tube and to the phono ground point, that might shut it up. the aro has a jewel bearing so has 2 internal ground wires, one from the tube and one from the pillar because the bearinf doesnt conduct. if the tube one is dodgy you can get loud hum.
The crack when switching a light on probably means the phono is picking up a spike from the switch in the lamp because there is no cap on it
On off switch has stopped sticking though. Must have needed a bit of use to free it up.
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