Hi Richard
Just placed an order for a pair of the Mk1 A80s to try.
Now, at the moment I'm using a bi-wire set of Anti-cables with my Anatek MB50s which won't suit the NVAs. So, I will need some cables made up so I can run both set-ups off against each other. To make sure I'm comparing like with like I would want the NVA cables to be bi-wire too. They would need to be 2.5m long and I'm thinking, (to save some ££), could they be made using LS5 for the LF and LS1 for the HF? I'm guessing the HF doesn't require the same current capacity as the LF? So my questions are: (Regardless of whether bi-wiring is actually worthwhile).
1. Would you think this asymmetrical construction would be ok?
2. If not, what construction would you recommend?
3. If they were made asymmetrical would I need to buy them outright?
4. How much would they cost me?
Cheers.
Pete
Cables - Bi-wire?
- zebbo
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Cables - Bi-wire?
Audio Grail "Sable" Garrard 401 with Cumbrian Green Slate plinth / Audiomods 6 / Benz Micro Gullwing SLR, Phono 2, NVA INT400sa. (Oh and a Copland CDA823 CD Player, for when I fancy a bit of the devil's spawn!)
- Dr Bunsen Honeydew
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Re: Cables - Bi-wire?
I am afraid you do not understand real bi-wire. Bi-wire with others means you have to buy two sets of cable. With NVA it is different. You buy the cable (for example LS5) and you buy the bi-wire option at £30. There are 28 separately insulated cores in LS5, when we bi-wire it 9 cores go to plugs for treble and 19 cores go to plugs for bass / mid. So only one set of cables is required.zebbo wrote:Hi Richard
Just placed an order for a pair of the Mk1 A80s to try.
Now, at the moment I'm using a bi-wire set of Anti-cables with my Anatek MB50s which won't suit the NVAs. So, I will need some cables made up so I can run both set-ups off against each other. To make sure I'm comparing like with like I would want the NVA cables to be bi-wire too. They would need to be 2.5m long and I'm thinking, (to save some ££), could they be made using LS5 for the LF and LS1 for the HF? I'm guessing the HF doesn't require the same current capacity as the LF? So my questions are: (Regardless of whether bi-wiring is actually worthwhile).
1. Would you think this asymmetrical construction would be ok?
2. If not, what construction would you recommend?
3. If they were made asymmetrical would I need to buy them outright?
4. How much would they cost me?
Cheers.
Pete
I have a traded in 3m set of bi-wire LS5 here if you want it - half normal new price = £110