JPW AP2

[Dr Bunsen Honeydew]

It is Neoprene based so should be fine, but you have to ensure it never goes hard it must retain elasticity.

[Alfi]

I've decided to hold fire Doc. I'll get the Bison adhesive that you recommend, no point in spoiling the ship for a ha'porth o tar. They say good things come to he who waits.

Thanks once again for your guidance.

[Alfi]

Stop press! In my impetuosity, last night I decided to do a little experiment with blue tack. I rolled out two long thin "worms" and gently installed them as rings around the dust cap. Doc knows his stuff alright! This really bought the mods into context. I purchased these AP2's for a fun project - I've certainly had loads, but I was not prepared for the level of musical enjoyment that followed and it's not completed properly just yet!

The only drawback now is the colour to the cabinets, it looks like real wood veneer but painted black so it looks rather drab. Now I know what these speakers are capable of I will keep them but think I may either strip the paint off, stain and lacquer - or do I go for a re veneer ?? I think it may be worth having the job done professionally - depending on cost of course.

Alfi.

[Dr Bunsen Honeydew]

I never thought about blue tack, that always stays flexible, though it might shake free from the cone with the vibration. Thanks it adds to knowledge as if you over do it with the glue it is hard to remove but if you get the right amount of damping first with blue tac then no problem - good development tool.

[Dr Bunsen Honeydew]

The only drawback now is the colour to the cabinets, it looks like real wood veneer but painted black so it looks rather drab. Now I know what these speakers are capable of I will keep them but think I may either strip the paint off, stain and lacquer - or do I go for a re veneer ?? I think it may be worth having the job done professionally - depending on cost of course.

Alfi.

Something I have considered in the past before I went to entirely acrylic cases was to glue sheets of 3mm black (or any finish) acrylic (Perspex) to the outside of the case. Gives a brill finish and adds to the cabinet improvements (mini version of the steel plate).

[Alfi]

You are right Doc, it does loosen off because it is slightly oily too, so I'm going to have to be careful to clean any residue off before applying the Bison glue when I get it .

Fantastic knowledge on improving the humble AP2's Doc - thanks very much indeed for sharing.

I was shaking my head and in disblelief last night, but also smiling at how the system now performs with the Doc modded AP2's

[Alfi]

That's certainly worth considering. I could then affix a rosewood or mahogany (or any other real wood) "bezel" around the front edges of the cabinet as mine are the earlier versions with the recessed front baffle.

[_D_S_J_R_]

Blue-Tac dries out though, at least in school it does - cough - ...

[Dr Bunsen Honeydew]

It is useful because it is reversible for testing how much doping / damping is needed. The glues are harder to remove once it dries to rubber if you put on too much.

[Alfi]

Finally got the them sounding great!

I applied two worms of Bison glue between the dust cap and cone and let it set, I then followed this with one coat of Plasti-dip. To me the midrange was still a little too forward so then I trialled with a worm of Blue-Tac over the Bison glue and this sounded really good.

The plan was to remove Blue Tac and worm some more Bison glue before one more coat of Plasti-dip but to my horror Blue-Tac had decided to weld itself to the cone! Oh well, so be it! I then simply gave the drivers another coat of Plasti-dip and all has worked out rather well! For approximately the price of three foo grade fuses I have me some super sounding stand mount speakers.

Alfi.