Cartridge for Doc's G99/Neat
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Re: Cartridge for Doc's G99/Neat
Your retort suggests a fragile ego and an ability to take things personally.
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Re: Cartridge for Doc's G99/Neat
Fwiw, I agreed with your initial recommendations Dave, I recommended a grado if mm and the 33 if mc. The reason for the 33ev over the f7 is that ime the 33 can be a little less aggressive at the very top end than the f7, which I found to be better in something abit lighter than that neat arm. I got better results in the AT1100 than I did with any other arms in my collection. Before the f7 got broken that is
My thoughts on the 33 are that its quite smooth and controlled compared to the 7. Hence the recommendation
My thoughts on the 33 are that its quite smooth and controlled compared to the 7. Hence the recommendation
Analogue: oracle delphi sme 309, jbe series 3 cx unipivot dv20x2l, roksan xerxes tabriz vm750, jvc ql-y5f rigb at440, jvc ql-y3f vm750, lenco 75, technics sl150
Phono stages: cole lcr, benedict audio hothead
Digital: cyrus cd7, wiim mini x2, topping e30, jds labs el dac 2+
Amplification: nelson pass b1, nelson pass f5
Speakers: 15" fane aperiodic wardrobes
Cans: myryad z40, hifiman sundara + deva, fostex t50rp, sennheiser momentum on ear +over ear, b&w p5 and p7
Phono stages: cole lcr, benedict audio hothead
Digital: cyrus cd7, wiim mini x2, topping e30, jds labs el dac 2+
Amplification: nelson pass b1, nelson pass f5
Speakers: 15" fane aperiodic wardrobes
Cans: myryad z40, hifiman sundara + deva, fostex t50rp, sennheiser momentum on ear +over ear, b&w p5 and p7
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Re: Cartridge for Doc's G99/Neat
Yes, take the platter off and screw up the 2 red bolts near the motor to lock the motor in place
Analogue: oracle delphi sme 309, jbe series 3 cx unipivot dv20x2l, roksan xerxes tabriz vm750, jvc ql-y5f rigb at440, jvc ql-y3f vm750, lenco 75, technics sl150
Phono stages: cole lcr, benedict audio hothead
Digital: cyrus cd7, wiim mini x2, topping e30, jds labs el dac 2+
Amplification: nelson pass b1, nelson pass f5
Speakers: 15" fane aperiodic wardrobes
Cans: myryad z40, hifiman sundara + deva, fostex t50rp, sennheiser momentum on ear +over ear, b&w p5 and p7
Phono stages: cole lcr, benedict audio hothead
Digital: cyrus cd7, wiim mini x2, topping e30, jds labs el dac 2+
Amplification: nelson pass b1, nelson pass f5
Speakers: 15" fane aperiodic wardrobes
Cans: myryad z40, hifiman sundara + deva, fostex t50rp, sennheiser momentum on ear +over ear, b&w p5 and p7
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Re: Cartridge for Doc's G99/Neat
If there are no transit bolts it should be ok, they are well built.
Pack something soft like a jumper under the motor just to stop it swinging around too much
Pack something soft like a jumper under the motor just to stop it swinging around too much
Analogue: oracle delphi sme 309, jbe series 3 cx unipivot dv20x2l, roksan xerxes tabriz vm750, jvc ql-y5f rigb at440, jvc ql-y3f vm750, lenco 75, technics sl150
Phono stages: cole lcr, benedict audio hothead
Digital: cyrus cd7, wiim mini x2, topping e30, jds labs el dac 2+
Amplification: nelson pass b1, nelson pass f5
Speakers: 15" fane aperiodic wardrobes
Cans: myryad z40, hifiman sundara + deva, fostex t50rp, sennheiser momentum on ear +over ear, b&w p5 and p7
Phono stages: cole lcr, benedict audio hothead
Digital: cyrus cd7, wiim mini x2, topping e30, jds labs el dac 2+
Amplification: nelson pass b1, nelson pass f5
Speakers: 15" fane aperiodic wardrobes
Cans: myryad z40, hifiman sundara + deva, fostex t50rp, sennheiser momentum on ear +over ear, b&w p5 and p7
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Re: Cartridge for Doc's G99/Neat
The platter is fitted to a TAPERED main spindle. A sharp pull upwards may be all you need, otherwise a third hand with a gentle tap with a mallet will do it
The motor (for those that don't know) is sprung and on most lenco's, there's two red headed screws which are 'unscrewed' fully anti-clockwise to suspend the motor and 'finger tightened' down (in this car transport case) to lock said motor for transport. This G99 is from 1966 from memory (there's a date stamp underneath) and I can't remember if these transit screws were there as captive screws as later lenco's had (unknown history before RD acquired it). I have pics taken here of it, but only fully fitted up and playing, not dismantled or with platter off, so can't tell you for definite. If car-driven carefully, you should get away with not touching the motor as long as when setting it up, said motor 'floats' within the springs. Otherwise, put some folded tissue or similar between motor and deck plate - leave ample so you can pull it out without it shedding everywhere.
The motor (for those that don't know) is sprung and on most lenco's, there's two red headed screws which are 'unscrewed' fully anti-clockwise to suspend the motor and 'finger tightened' down (in this car transport case) to lock said motor for transport. This G99 is from 1966 from memory (there's a date stamp underneath) and I can't remember if these transit screws were there as captive screws as later lenco's had (unknown history before RD acquired it). I have pics taken here of it, but only fully fitted up and playing, not dismantled or with platter off, so can't tell you for definite. If car-driven carefully, you should get away with not touching the motor as long as when setting it up, said motor 'floats' within the springs. Otherwise, put some folded tissue or similar between motor and deck plate - leave ample so you can pull it out without it shedding everywhere.
Last edited by _D_S_J_R_ on Wed Aug 21, 2019 1:30 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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