HiFi Subjectivist ¦ Audio Forum ¦ NVA User Group

Well done.

If it pleases YOU then that is all that matters. So, you have made them semi omni ? And what type of cap did you buy for the tweeter ? And have you had to put a padding resistor on the tweeter ?

Stu

Cheers
I used the cap from the tweeter crossover in the linns, no resistor- what’s its effect?
I read on the Richard Allan site that the tweeter is ‘full range’- don’t understand that really so just added the cap.

Resistor is to reduce the tweeters output relative to the other driver. Only needed if you think the tweeter is too loud.

Cheers
They well matched at the moment

https://www.flickr.com/gp/161903433@N06/m1hqA3

https://www.flickr.com/gp/161903433@N06/15V9kx



https://www.flickr.com/gp/161903433@N06/2312u1

Latteman wrote: ↑Thu Oct 25, 2018 8:47 pm Cheers
They well matched at the moment

ADMIN - nasty, 1st strike applied.

EDIT - it should be obvious the content of the post was removed as it was ad hominem and extremely rude to Latteman.

Those cone tweeters look naff to people with no knowledge but they are surprisingly good, not as extended as a good modern dome tweeter but very sweet and musical.

When you say extended do you mean the frequency range or the ‘projection/dispersion ‘

Hi again, I’m just about to install a set of doc modded 8” drivers, I would like some advice on the appropriate approach- I have been testing the wiring of each 8” plus a tweeter (cap only)- i can do it parallel at a total 8ohmn load max or in series at 16ohmn max, is there a preference you recommended using an A20,
I have a separate A20 directly feeding 10” Fane drivers rated at 16ohmn each so thought to match the diy cubes to these?
Cheers

Those Fanes are full range or just Bass boxes?