Speaker repair help!

[Dr Bunsen Honeydew]

Positioning and probably crossover value adjustment to. They will not position the same.

[Jonty2547]

One thing that's been bugging me is that the modded speaker plays at about half the volume compared to the standard one.
Is this normal?
I'm fairly confident I've wired it up all ok, the only thing i used more of was much thicker wire between the drivers ( it's all I had to hand).

[Dr Bunsen Honeydew]

It is a compromise and trade off between wiring in series and in parallel. If it bothers you change it to parallel wiring - each driver pos and neg wired separately back to the terminals. I find series musically better but you lose sensitivity as the impedance goes up. 15ohm for series, 4ohm for parallel.

[Simon Hickie]

I've found that my Doc Modded speakers using new drivers to have loosened up considerably after some hours on the clock and are now sounding pretty sweet with the recommended 3.3uF cap and 12 ohm resistor. Volume now has to be dialled back a bit since mods were first done. IIRC I had a pair of the same B&Os for a short while, but found them a bit thin and strangled overall.

I'd be interested to know how the lead works out. I went for steel as per recommendations, but considered the lead flashing alternative. Looks like you're a bit far away for a bit of comparing!

[Jonty2547]

I swapped to parallel and "bingo!" Much much better. In fact, bloody superb!
The modded speaker is now much more what i was expecting. Bass is lacking, but with only 3 hours or so of music through it, it's not unexpected.
I just need to mod the other one and i'm expecting very nice thing to come
Simon, i've no idea if lead is a better alternative than steel, but what i'm hearing so far is very nice. What i will say is that it's extremely easy to work with and if you run out you can nip down to your local church and get some more.
*that was a joke btw

[Dr Bunsen Honeydew]

More bass speaker further back to the wall.

I should put this in my sig I say it so many times.

[Simon Hickie]

Cheers Jonty. I'm mulling over some DIY Cubes with the same drivers. I'll see how much steel I can salvage from the cabinets before looking at alternatives, but some lead may well be useful for those places where the space makes it hard to put steel. I seem to recall reading recently that steel goes a good job of absorbing energy inside the cabinet and that lead is good for dealing with bass. Lead as a raw material is more expensive than steel, but you can cut it yourself and quite a bit of the cost in using steel seems to be cutting costs. I'm guessing the costs for a cube will be pretty comparable between the two.

My better half likes the idea of speakers closer to the wall. For me, there's no comparison between the bass from a properly sealed speaker and what you seem to get from the average ported jobby. The former seems to allow much more room friendly placement whether point and squirt or semi-omni than ported units that often seem to have to be positioned ridiculous distances from walls. Too many ported speakers seem to offer extended bass but with little definition. I had to leave the room at Scalford where a pair of expensive Audio Notes were playing. OK, the room was not great and they were room friendly insofar as they go in a corner, but bloaty one note bass was the consequence. I wouldn't give £400 for them let alone the several thousand they probably cost. Quite honestly I prefer the sound from my Doc Modded (as per Doc Mod spec) Omars.

FWIW a friend who is an acoustics engineer has a pair of ATC SCM40 speakers (sealed) which sit less than a foot from the rear wall and still sound as tight as anything.