ScanDyna A30 Rebuild vs Doped Something Else

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Simon Hickie
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ScanDyna A30 Rebuild vs Doped Something Else

Unread post by Simon Hickie »

I've run pair of ScanDyna A30 speakers for a year or so now. I've replaced the tweeters and updated the crossovers, but at the end of the day they are pretty ugly and have the aperiodic port at the top so the tweeters are stupidly low, even on 40cm stands. That said, they have the huge benefit of running the bass driver full range and just a cap and resistor on the tweeter. So the combined low WAF and weak driver positioning mean either a full cabinet rebuild (unlikely to prove popular as we're trying to sell the house) or going for something with better looking boxes where I can modify the bass driver to run full range and with a tweeter that will work with just a cap and possibly resistor.

I've thought about full range single driver solutions and concluded that (a) small drivers just can't shift enough air for large scale works at anything like sensible volumes and (b) large drivers can't do decent treble without excessive beaming. That said, I'm persuaded by the merits of simple or no crossovers.

This leaves me looking at older units with decently sized bass/mid drivers which can run either with a first order crossover or full range and just a simple cap/resistor on the treble. I'm aware of the thread on modding JPW speakers, but was wondering about alternatives. Sizewise, Something like JPW A2 or Wharfedale Linton 2 sized would be ideal - smaller than the Scandynas but big enough to offer a decent bottom end.

Any suggestions would be gratefully received.

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Quarknosis
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Re: ScanDyna A30 Rebuild vs Doped Something Else

Unread post by Quarknosis »

Simon, keep an eye out for the JPW P1 if you are interested in the AP2, the sizes are the same but the P1 doesn't have the bitumen damping panels that the AP2 does. Ideal for Doc Mods. The JPW AP3 a lager version of these and also have the damping panels. Original Lintons have the advantage that the back panel can be screwed off for easy access although the baffle would need some fettling to take Doc Mod drivers, I think you can just about fit the 8" in if the hole is made bigger

I have both the P1 (with the wadding already removed) and the AP3 here at the moment although it looks like they might have to go to make room for another project ;)
Main System. Amp - Luxman LV-120, CD - Pioneer PDX505 & Hitachi DA 401. Turntable - Trio KD-2055/Denon DL-110 & Ortofon VMS20E. Cassette Deck - JVC KD A55. Speakers - Arcam Alpha connected with NVA LS3.

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Re: ScanDyna A30 Rebuild vs Doped Something Else

Unread post by CycleCoach »

FYI Saw this today:
JPW P1s for sale on eBay
I think I might be in the HiFi trade.
I am not currently seeking treatment for this.
Current System: Linn LP12 Lingo Ekos Troika, NVA PHONO2 with BBPSU, NVA AP20 (White), Quad ESL 57s &/or NVA Cube3s (White)

Simon Hickie
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Re: ScanDyna A30 Rebuild vs Doped Something Else

Unread post by Simon Hickie »

Thanks for info re. JPW P1s. I also have a pair of JPW Monitor Gold speakers pressed into emergency TV duties that I could perhaps experiment on re. steel and wadding. Overall their tonal balance is on the shouty and bright side. IIRC, they have a very simple crossover with the bass driver running full range.

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Dr Bunsen Honeydew
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Re: ScanDyna A30 Rebuild vs Doped Something Else

Unread post by Dr Bunsen Honeydew »

The minis are not really worth it, they are good little things on their own.

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wallace
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Re: ScanDyna A30 Rebuild vs Doped Something Else

Unread post by wallace »

Simon Hickie wrote:Thanks for info re. JPW P1s. I also have a pair of JPW Monitor Gold speakers pressed into emergency TV duties that I could perhaps experiment on re. steel and wadding. Overall their tonal balance is on the shouty and bright side. IIRC, they have a very simple crossover with the bass driver running full range.
I found them to be too bright as well,i changed the resister on mine ,as advised by the Doc,and it did help.In the end i sold them and kept a regular pair of mini's.I think the gold's were a step backwards,sorry to be a bit negative,but a resister change was worth it.Cheers.
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Simon Hickie
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Re: ScanDyna A30 Rebuild vs Doped Something Else

Unread post by Simon Hickie »

Thanks guys. Yes, probably not worth experimenting with steel on the minis. Something with an 8 inch bass driver is more suitable for my needs.

Daniel Quinn
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Re: ScanDyna A30 Rebuild vs Doped Something Else

Unread post by Daniel Quinn »

I have two unused refoamed JPW AP2 drivers and you can also buy new ones for £160 ish . {same drivers used in JPW 1 and Snells }

I replaced then with RD's already doped 8inch drivers . To be honest for the price I cannot really think of a suitable alternative ,

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Quarknosis
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Re: ScanDyna A30 Rebuild vs Doped Something Else

Unread post by Quarknosis »

wallace wrote:
Simon Hickie wrote:Thanks for info re. JPW P1s. I also have a pair of JPW Monitor Gold speakers pressed into emergency TV duties that I could perhaps experiment on re. steel and wadding. Overall their tonal balance is on the shouty and bright side. IIRC, they have a very simple crossover with the bass driver running full range.
I found them to be too bright as well,i changed the resister on mine ,as advised by the Doc,and it did help.In the end i sold them and kept a regular pair of mini's.I think the gold's were a step backwards,sorry to be a bit negative,but a resister change was worth it.Cheers.
+1 with regard to the resistor change.
Main System. Amp - Luxman LV-120, CD - Pioneer PDX505 & Hitachi DA 401. Turntable - Trio KD-2055/Denon DL-110 & Ortofon VMS20E. Cassette Deck - JVC KD A55. Speakers - Arcam Alpha connected with NVA LS3.

Headphone System - Little Dot Mkiii headphone amp, various vintage CD players into NVA P50 with Sennheiser HD600 and Beyer DT 880

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