Home made cubes

[Dr Bunsen Honeydew]

I did a longer post on the AoS thread but I think the basis of it is valid here, so I will copy.

I have thought in the past that because acrylic cabs are so expensive I should do a wooden version of the speakers which from me would be about 30% cheaper than the acrylic, but about 20% not as good. But really I am getting old, don't want so much work, want to leave a legacy etc etc so it is better to make them available for DIY. I make a little money on the drive units for my work in doping them. Also personally *I* want to focus on the few people who want to follow the powered route of the Cube / Cubix Pro upgradeable speakers as I am still boggled at how much better they are than even to the standard unpowered acrylic ones, which are pretty amazing in themselves. Also most DIYers I think will make them the basis for a NVA system so I will get enough sales out of it along the line.

[jimbob]

Hats off to you doc for sharing what you know and for being happy with people doing DIY cubes. Immitation and all that! I'm hoping to get this pair built for about 3-400 pounds so for me this is a good way of getting some of the cube goodness in a way I can afford.

[jimbob]

At long last this project can take place! I now have the ply I need to build the speakers and I have access to a workshop with all the tools needed to build them.

As I have said in another thread I have just got a pair of Allison 6s to doc mod so I'm not sure if I should make these Cube 2 or Cube 1 sized??? Hmm... I would be tempted to make more than one pair so I could make them into a stacked double or triple set like an externally powered Cubix/Cubix pro???

Doc could you please provide the required hole cut out sizes for both the 6.5 and 8 inch drivers and the Visaton G20 if you do not mind.

James

[jimbob]

Another idea that I'm thinking about is that I wouldn't need the triple stack to be modular so I could build it as one large speaker with 3 compartments. This should be the same as three stacked Cubes but I think will give a tidier finish. All 3 compartments will of course be steel lined.

[Dr Bunsen Honeydew]

Very complex, and if you have any driver failures a real problem to try and get inside to fix.

[jimbob]

It is a problem I have considered. I would have to make the back panel removable but somehow still make all compartments airtight with the panel in place. It is doable but as you said will be complex. How could I make three separate Cubes airtight once stacked? I imagine it's fairly easy with the mirror surface of the acrylic cabs.

[Dr Bunsen Honeydew]

Exactly, I do it the way I do it for reasons.

[jimbob]

I will put my thinking cap on. I assume internal dimensions of 260mm x 260mm x 260mm is correct for each compartment? I am leaning towards the front top and bottom being mitre jointed and glued. The shelves will be glued and dowelled in place to the inside of the front panel. The sides will be glued and dowelled to the top, bottom and both shelf edges. The back panel will be recessed if possible and will be screwed on for repairs etc.

[zebbo]

To be honest jimbob, with modern adhesives you don't need any type of jointing at all. Simply make sure your edges are straight and square then just butt them together and clamp. You are making a lot of work for yourself for nothing. The adhesive will be stronger than the ply.

[jimbob]

Yeah I know zebbo I just wanted to cut down on the number of exposed ply edges for aesthetic reasons. I only wanted the side panels to have the ply layers showing... I suppose I could get fancier if I made a second pair.