Re: My latest obsession
Posted: Mon Jul 15, 2019 10:00 pm
I converted a bass drum to a 'free floating' design like drums were made in the olden days. This entailed removing the lugs from the wooden shell. These are held on by screws through to the inside of the drum. These lugs are what the tension bolts screw in to - the bolts that are tightened or loosened to change the tension of the head (skin) and thus change the pitch of the drum. I also removed the tom tom mount on the top and the spurs which stop the drum moving when playing. Well the drum doesn't move on carpet with those removed. I use a homemade rack so don't need the mount for the tom toms.
So now i have a drum with lots of holes in it that need plugging and the drum needs recovering. The idea behind removing all the metal work from the shell is to let the wood vibrate to it's full potential rather than being hindered by lots of heavy metal. The tone of the drum is said to improve and it has.
To enable the skins to be tensioned i cut ten lengths of 6 mm round brass bar to just the right length and put threads on each end to accept nylon locking nuts. The drum can be tensioned now without anything touching the wooden shell. Only thing is now the top and bottom heads have exactly the same tension. Before this modification you could tune the bottom head higher which is useful in some situations.
I plan to do this to all my drums and recover them in the same finish. Rack and cymbal holders are all home made out of 50 mm square aluminum box section and the cymbals sit on lengths of 8 mm aluminum round solid bar. Not sure how to finish the aluminum ye. It doesn't take paint well unless you use etching primer. I could just polish it up and put some lacquer on to make it as similar to chrome as i can.
I will put some pictures up when i can be arsed. Not exactly a home made drum kit but parts of it are and they will all be modified in some way. Just can't help myself. One good thing about it is other drummers who happen to use it won't be able to change any settings or the arrangement. Nothing i hate more than others fffing about with your kit when you told them not to. Hi hat stand doesn't have any legs anymore as it is clamped to the rack and acts as one of the four legs to stabilise the rack.
So now i have a drum with lots of holes in it that need plugging and the drum needs recovering. The idea behind removing all the metal work from the shell is to let the wood vibrate to it's full potential rather than being hindered by lots of heavy metal. The tone of the drum is said to improve and it has.
To enable the skins to be tensioned i cut ten lengths of 6 mm round brass bar to just the right length and put threads on each end to accept nylon locking nuts. The drum can be tensioned now without anything touching the wooden shell. Only thing is now the top and bottom heads have exactly the same tension. Before this modification you could tune the bottom head higher which is useful in some situations.
I plan to do this to all my drums and recover them in the same finish. Rack and cymbal holders are all home made out of 50 mm square aluminum box section and the cymbals sit on lengths of 8 mm aluminum round solid bar. Not sure how to finish the aluminum ye. It doesn't take paint well unless you use etching primer. I could just polish it up and put some lacquer on to make it as similar to chrome as i can.
I will put some pictures up when i can be arsed. Not exactly a home made drum kit but parts of it are and they will all be modified in some way. Just can't help myself. One good thing about it is other drummers who happen to use it won't be able to change any settings or the arrangement. Nothing i hate more than others fffing about with your kit when you told them not to. Hi hat stand doesn't have any legs anymore as it is clamped to the rack and acts as one of the four legs to stabilise the rack.